Jordan Ancient Sites: From the Rose-Red City to the Roman
Explore Jordan's archaeological treasures — from Petra to Jerash, desert castles to mosaic cities. Plan your journey through the ancient Middle East.
Jordan is a miracle of preservation. While neighboring countries saw their ancient heritage damaged by time, conflict, or development, Jordan’s desert climate and low population density protected some of the finest Roman ruins outside Italy and the most spectacular rock-cut city in the world.
Petra — the rose-red city half as old as time — needs no introduction. But Jordan’s archaeological riches extend far beyond the Nabataean capital. Jerash preserves a complete Roman provincial city with colonnaded streets still intact. The Amman Citadel and Roman Theater dominate the modern capital. Umm Qais offers Greco-Roman ruins with views across three countries. And the Desert Castles preserve early Islamic art in remote, atmospheric settings.
Compact, safe, and easy to navigate, Jordan offers the most accessible and rewarding ancient travel experience in the Middle East.
The Nabataean Heart: Petra and the Mysteries of the South
Petra: The Rose-Red City
The approach through the Siq — a narrow slot canyon winding for 1.2 kilometers — builds anticipation until the Treasury (Al-Khazneh) suddenly appears, its facade carved directly from rose-red sandstone. But Petra is far more than this iconic view: it’s an entire city spread across a vast valley, with hundreds of tombs, temples, theaters, and houses carved from multicolored rock.
Essential experiences:
- The Treasury: The iconic facade, best photographed in morning light
- The Monastery (Ad-Deir): An 850-step climb rewards you with Petra’s largest carved monument — 48 meters wide and almost as tall
- The Royal Tombs: Four elaborate facades including the Urn Tomb with its magnificent interior
- The Colonnaded Street: Roman-era main street with temples and shops
- Petra by Night: Walk the Siq by candlelight to the Treasury (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday evenings)
How long: One day covers the basics; two days allows you to reach the Monastery and explore trails; three days for hiking enthusiasts.
Base: Wadi Musa, the town adjacent to Petra. Stay at least one night to experience Petra by Night and beat the morning crowds.
Little Petra (Siq al-Berid)
Just north of the main site, Little Petra offers similar rock-cut architecture on a smaller scale — and with a fraction of the visitors. The Painted House preserves rare surviving Nabataean frescoes. Combine with a hike to the Monastery via the “back door” route for a memorable day.
Wadi Rum: Desert Landscapes and Inscriptions
While primarily known for its dramatic desert scenery (Lawrence of Arabia was filmed here), Wadi Rum preserves thousands of Thamudic and Nabataean inscriptions on rock faces. The Khazali Canyon shelters petroglyphs of humans, animals, and inscriptions dating back millennia.
The Decapolis Glory: Jerash and the Roman North
Jordan’s northern region — ancient Gilead and the Decapolis — preserves some of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world, rivaling anything in Italy or Syria.
Jerash: The Pompeii of the East
Jerash (ancient Gerasa) is astonishing. Walk the colonnaded Cardo Maximus — a street lined with 500 columns — enter the South Theatre (acoustics still perfect), and explore temples, churches, and plazas in a setting of remarkable completeness. Unlike Pompeii, Jerash wasn’t destroyed; it was simply abandoned after earthquakes and economic decline, preserving structures rather than burying them.
Don’t miss:
- Hadrian’s Arch: Built in 129 CE to honor the emperor’s visit
- The Oval Plaza: Unique elliptical forum surrounded by columns
- The Colonnaded Street: 800 meters of original Roman paving and columns
- The South Theatre: Seating 3,000; local musicians often demonstrate the acoustics
- The Temple of Artemis: Majestic columns on a hilltop overlooking the city
Allow: 3–4 hours minimum. Go early or late to avoid midday heat and tour groups.
→ Complete Jerash Travel Guide
Umm Qais: Views Across Three Countries
The ancient Decapolis city of Gadara sits on a dramatic promontory with views across the Sea of Galilee to Israel, the Golan Heights to Syria, and northern Jordan. The black basalt ruins — a mix of Greco-Roman and Ottoman architecture — include a colonnaded street, theaters, and a distinctive underground mausoleum.
Bonus: The views are spectacular, especially at sunset. The on-site museum is housed in the former residence of the Ottoman governor.
Combine with: A visit to the nearby Ajloun Castle (a 12th-century Muslim fortress) for contrast.
Pella (Tabaqat Fahl)
Less visited than Jerash but historically significant, Pella was occupied continuously from the Neolithic through Islamic periods. The site preserves a Byzantine church, Roman baths, and a Canaanite temple — testament to its long history. Archaeological work continues here.
The Urban Core: Amman Citadel and the Roman Theater
Jordan’s modern capital stands on layers of ancient settlements — Rabbath-Ammon of the Ammonites, Philadelphia of the Hellenistic period, and a provincial capital of the Roman Empire.
The Amman Citadel (Jabal al-Qal’a)
The hill dominating downtown Amman preserves remains from multiple eras:
- The Temple of Hercules: Massive columns from a 2nd-century CE temple; a hand and elbow from a colossal statue remain
- The Umayyad Palace: 8th-century administrative complex with a domed audience hall
- The Byzantine Church: 6th-century basilica with mosaic floors
- The Archaeological Museum: Small but significant collection including the Dead Sea Scrolls (copper scroll) and Ammonite statuary
Views: The Citadel offers panoramic views across modern Amman’s white-stone cityscape.
The Roman Theater
Carved into the hillside below the Citadel, Amman’s Roman Theatre seats 6,000 and remains remarkably intact. Built in the 2nd century CE, it hosts concerts and events today. The small folklore museum on-site is skippable, but the theatre itself is worth the climb to the top rows for photos.
Nearby: The Odeon (smaller, covered theatre) and the Hashemite Plaza offer additional ruins and people-watching.
The Desert Castles: Early Islamic Art
East of Amman, the desert preserves a string of 8th-century Umayyad “castles” — actually hunting lodges, bathhouses, and caravan stations decorated with extraordinary frescoes and mosaics showing the transition from Byzantine to Islamic art.
Qasr Amra: The World Heritage Gem
The most famous and significant, Qasr Amra is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its frescoes — rare surviving examples of early Islamic secular art. The walls depict hunting scenes, bathers, musicians, and even a representation of the zodiac, painted in a style blending Byzantine, Persian, and Arab influences.
Access: 85 km east of Amman; best visited with a rental car or as part of an organized Desert Castles loop.
Qasr Kharana and Qasr al-Azraq
Kharana is an imposing fortress-like structure (though likely a caravanserai rather than military) with distinctive architecture. Azraq is a black basalt fort associated with T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia), who used it as his headquarters during the Arab Revolt.
The Holy Land: Madaba, Mount Nebo, and Ancient Bethany
Jordan’s role in biblical history adds another layer to its archaeological richness.
Madaba: The City of Mosaics
Famous for the 6th-century Madaba Map — a mosaic map of the Holy Land in the floor of St. George’s Church showing Jerusalem and the region with remarkable accuracy. The town preserves multiple Byzantine churches with extraordinary floor mosaics.
Mount Nebo
Where Moses is said to have viewed the Promised Land before his death. The memorial church preserves extraordinary mosaic floors from the 6th century, and on clear days you can see across the Jordan Valley to Jerusalem.
Bethany Beyond the Jordan (Al-Maghtas)
The site where John the Baptist is believed to have baptized Jesus, on the east bank of the Jordan River. Excavations have revealed churches, baptismal pools, and hermit caves from the Roman and Byzantine periods. Pope John Paul II, Pope Benedict XVI, and Pope Francis have all visited.
Planning Your Route: The 7-Day King’s Highway Itinerary
Jordan is compact — you can drive from the northern border to Aqaba in about 5 hours. This allows for efficient multi-site itineraries.
The Classic North-to-South Circuit (7 Days)
Days 1–2: Amman
- Arrive Queen Alia International Airport
- Amman Citadel, Roman Theatre, downtown souks
- Day trip to Jerash and Ajloun Castle
Days 3–4: Madaba region
- Madaba mosaics and St. George’s Church
- Mount Nebo
- Bethany Beyond the Jordan
- Continue to the Dead Sea (floating, spa treatments)
Days 5–6: Petra
- Full day exploring Petra
- Petra by Night experience
- Optional: Little Petra or the back-door Monastery hike
Day 7: Wadi Rum and Aqaba
- Morning in Wadi Rum (4WD tour, Bedouin experience)
- Afternoon in Aqaba (Red Sea snorkeling) or return to Amman
The Archaeological Deep Dive (10 Days)
Add to the above:
- Day 3: Umm Qais and Pella (overnight in Irbid or return to Amman)
- Day 4: Desert Castles loop (Qasr Amra, Kharana, Azraq)
- Extra day at Petra for hiking trails and extended exploration
- Extra day at Wadi Rum for overnight camping under the stars
Pro Tip: Timing Your North-to-South Loop with the Jordan Pass
The Jordan Pass (jordanpass.jo) is essential for archaeological travelers. It includes:
- Visa fee (normally JD 40 for most nationalities)
- Entry to over 40 attractions including Petra (1, 2, or 3 days), Jerash, Amman Citadel, Umm Qais, and more
- Skip-the-line access at some sites
Versions:
- Jordan Wanderer: 1 day Petra + 40+ sites (~JD 70)
- Jordan Explorer: 2 days Petra + 40+ sites (~JD 75) — Recommended for most visitors
- Jordan Expert: 3 days Petra + 40+ sites (~JD 80) — Best for serious Petra enthusiasts
Buy before arrival — the visa fee component only applies if you purchase in advance.
Practical Information
| Best time to visit | March–May and September–November |
| Currency | Jordanian Dinar (JD); 1 JD ≈ $1.41 USD (pegged) |
| Getting around | Rental car (recommended), JETT buses, domestic flights (Amman-Aqaba) |
| Major bases | Amman, Wadi Musa (Petra), Madaba, Aqaba |
| Entry: | Visa on arrival for most nationalities; Jordan Pass covers visa fee if pre-purchased |
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Jordan safe for tourists? Jordan is widely considered the safest country in the Middle East for tourists. The government prioritizes tourism security, and major sites are well-patrolled.
Do I need a guide in Jordan? Not required, but guides enhance the experience at Petra and Jerash. At Petra, licensed guides are available at the visitor center; at Jerash, local guides often approach visitors at the entrance.
How should I dress at archaeological sites? Jordan is relatively liberal, but modest dress is appreciated — shoulders and knees covered. This is especially true at religious sites like Mount Nebo and Bethany. Comfortable walking shoes are essential — sites involve significant walking on uneven surfaces.
Can I drink alcohol in Jordan? Alcohol is available in hotels, tourist restaurants, and liquor stores, though less common than in Western countries. Respect local customs by not drinking in public outside tourist areas.
What about the Dead Sea? While not an archaeological site, the Dead Sea is a natural wonder best experienced from the Jordanian side (less crowded than Israel). Combine with Madaba and Mount Nebo for an efficient day.
Featured Sites in Jordan
→ Petra: The Complete Visitor’s Guide
→ Jerash: The Pompeii of the East
→ Amman Citadel: Layers of History